I went shopping at the Italian shop on Saturday. It's not really called the Italian shop, it's just what we call it, run as it is by Italians, the real name is Balaclava Fresh Centre. It used to be a bit closer to us, but Safeway made an offer for the site, the owner didn't refuse and the Italian shop relocated further down Carlisle Street. Which in a way really improved things as the shop at the old location was looking a bit tired.

We don't shop there all the time, but when we're after something a bit interesting that's where we go. The grocery section is like an Aladdin's cave full of great products from around the world, it puts Coles gourmet section to shame. Things that we have discovered here include smoked cod's liver and mackerel fillets in tins which is not the whole story, wonderful jams and preserves, imported cakes and biscuits, the full range of genuine Italian pastas and tinned tomatoes plus a freezer groaning with unexpected treasures like pelmenis (pierogies); this is the Jewish end of Carlisle Street after all and the recent influx of Russian Jews is having an effect on the foods here. There is a wonderful deli section with an Italian slant - some of the more artisan salamis can be found here plus a great range of cheeses, again, featuring good Italian products. There is also the full range of greengrocery items.

They were running a cheese promotion and it was the first time in over a year that I wished there was a camera with me, to share with you the cheese stand that was set up and manned by an Italian chap dressed up in the full cheese makers kit, surrounded by huge wheels of cheese and one giant Provolone sausage, girded with rope that must have weighed close to 100 kg (220 lb). I have a confession to make here - it pains me to say, good foodie that I am, until about a year ago I had never tasted Provolone and now that I'm eating it, can't think why on earth I didn't try it sooner.

The Italian was busy talking in his native tongue to another customer so I had a little try of the Auricchio brand Provolone and Grana Padano while he wasn't looking, both of which were excellent. The next stop was the deli counter where they had some wonderful looking pancetta, not rolled but flat, which I hadn't had before so ordered a piece. The last time I had pancetta it was rolled and fairly dry and I struggled to see why it is so popular, but with this new piece it was like chalk and cheese. Pancetta simply put is Italian bacon, made from pork belly. It is either rolled into a sausage shape like a salami, or left flat, it is gently spiced and cured for about three months, though not usually smoked it can be. If you had a piece like mine that was unsmoked, it tastes a little sweeter than smoked bacon, adding subtle cured porky hints to whatever dish you add it to.

Back from the deli and past the cheese stand, the Italian motioned for me to come over and taste and I explained that I already had, when he pulled out a little plate of Parmigiano Reggiano that he wanted me to try. The kindest thing I could say about it was that it tasted like an upmarket version of the aforementioned Grana Padano. There was no real sharpness, no character, no crunch of grittiness that is the mark of the best parmigiano, it was like the cheese maker had decided to make a better Grana Padano and slightly succeeded.

Perhaps Auricchio should stick to Grana Padano at which they are very good.

I called the shop to get some more details and asked about that giant Provolone on display. It looks like my eye is pretty good for it weighed exactly 100 kg. The man I spoke to told me at another store there was a 1000 kg Provolone put on display that had to be brought in by crane!

Balaclava Fresh Centre
316 Carlisle Street
Balaclava

Labels: Balaclava Fresh Centre, cheese, grana padano, pancetta, provolone