The late French chef Jean Delaveyne is probably one of the most influential chefs of his generation, though not much is known about him outside his country. He has been described as being a great talent, but without all the hyperbole. Joel Rubuchon was mentored by Delaveyne and had this to say,

"... for me, Delaveyne was the first to help us move out from under the yoke of Escoffier -- he was in truth the beginning of nouvelle cuisine, teaching me that cuisine was more than manual, more than technique, that it was also reflection."

We are fortunate here in Australia to have two chefs that have been influenced by him, Alain Fabrègues of Western Australia's Loose Box restaurant, who was once his apprentice and Philippe Mouchel from Victoria's, the brasserie by Philippe Mouchel, who has worked with Delaveyne, a noted passionate mushroom lover.

So did the spore of this mushroom love infect his two proteges? The answer would have to be a resounding YES! Of course any true Frenchman worth his salt has some feeling for all things funghi, but it takes a special craftsman to bring out their absolute best; anyone can do mushrooms on toast, but how many cooks, or chefs for that matter can get you to the very essence of a porcini or chanterelle, or further, to the soul of a truffle?

I know Mouchel can, having had the experience and there is no doubt about Fabrègues either, he is running a masterclass on truffles at the Mundaring Truffle Festival, just before coming to Victoria to cook with Mouchel a very special, one off, truffle gala dinner on Tuesday, 26th August.

Want a peek? I know you do.

Philippe Mouchel

Creme parmesanne, oeuf de caille, truffes noires et consommé
Warm parmesan custard, quail egg, truffle and winter broth
Hanging Rock NV Brut Cuvee XII, Macedon, Victoria

Alain Fabrègues

Carpaccio de boeuf saumuré au sucre et sel aux truffes
Beef carpaccio served with juliennes of truffles, white champignons, sugar peas, apples, basil, parsley, horseradish and olive oil
2005 Moss Wood Pinot Noir

Philippe Mouchel

Coquilles saint –jacques poêlées en salade aux truffes noires beurre noisette
Pan-seared scallops with Manjimup black truffle and brown butter vinaigrette
2008 Moss Wood Semillon Sauvignon Blanc

Alain Fabrègues

Terrine de cèpes et chanterelles aux truffes
Terrine of porcini and chanterelles mushroom with Manjimup black truffle, served glazed
2007 Moss Wood Chardonnay

Philippe Mouchel

Medley d’agneau aux truffes noires , légumes de saison mijotés
Pan-roasted lamb medley with Manjimup black truffle and simered vegetables
2006 Moss Wood Ribbonvale Cabernet Merlot

Alain Fabrègues

Le nougat glacé aux noisettes, pistaches et truffes noires pralinés
Iced nougat with Hazelnuts, pistachios and Manjimup black truffle, served with a caramelised crème anglaise
2002 Chateau Pinsan Sauternes, Bordeaux, France


Coffee or selected teas and chocolate truffle

For more information, check out the brasserie by Philippe Mouchel's website. I'll be there just for the scallops.