'Good day', said Mitchell.
'Good day', said the manager.
'It's hot,' said Mitchell
'Yes, it's hot.'
I don't suppose,' said Mitchell; 'I don't suppose it's any use asking you for a job?'
'Naw.'
'Well, I won't ask you,' said Mitchell, 'but I don't suppose you want any fencing done?'
'Naw.'
'Nor boundary riding?'
'Naw.'
'You ain't likely to want a man to knock around?'
'Naw.'
'I thought not. Things are pretty bad just now.'
'Na -- yes -- they are.'
'Ah, well; there's a lot to be said on the squatter's side as well as the men's. I suppose I can get a bit of rations?'
'Ye -- yes. (Shortly) -- Wot d'yer want?'
'Well, let's see; we want a bit of meat and flour -- I think that's all. Got enough tea and sugar to carry us on.'
'All right. Cook! have you any meat?'
'No!'
To Mitchell: 'Can you kill a sheep?'
'Rather!'
To the cook: 'Give this man a cloth and knife and steel, and let him go up to the yard and kill a sheep? (To Mitchell): You can take a forequarter and a bit of flour.'
Half an hour later Mitchell came back with the carcase wrapped in cloth.
'Here yer are; here's your sheep,' he said to the cook.
'That's all right, hang it in there. Did you take the forequarter?'
'No.'
'Well why didn't you? The boss told you to.'
'I didn't want a forequarter. I don't like it. I took a hindquarter.
So he had.

Mitchell: A Character Sketch by Henry Lawson

Henry Lawson loitered around outback New South Wales awhile, penning vivid stories about life in the bush, very often from the point of the working man or the just plain down and out, with whom he shared a subtle connection. His peregrinations took him through the heart of saltbush country, useless for anything else but sheep and the odd bit of cattle.

Saltbush is a very hardy shrub that thrives in arid country and is extremely tolerant of salt, an important consideration in many parts of Australia. In fact, its value as stockfeed and ability to grow in very dry conditions has led to the commercial development of saltbush as a crop, with Old Man Saltbush (Atriplex Nummularia) now being planted on a wide scale across the country.

It has high levels of vitamin E, a powerful anti-oxidant, and is thought to be responsible for the unique flavour and incredible tenderness of lambs that feed on it, as well as naturally extending shelf life and maintaining the rich red colour of the meat, without making the meat at all salty.

Ironic too, that after a couple of centuries of battling the bush to establish pastures in an environment hostile to it, we are now taking a lead from the land itself and planting indigenous crops that are completely suited to our harsh climate, helping protect the land from erosion and salinity.

Having read much about salt bush mutton and lamb, but never actually seeing any, it seemingly a bush speciality, you can then imagine my happiness at finding some at Prahran Market last weekend under the Bultarra label. There nestled alongside the other cuts were boned out and cryovaced legs and shoulders as well as lamb cutlets.

Unlike Mitchell, we like forequarter and bought a boned out shoulder to try and slow roasted it to juicy succulence. Wanting to fully experience the flavour, the joint was only salted beforehand. The kitchen filled with the aroma of the roast, which seemed unlike that of regular lamb, almost like lamb essence.

After a short rest, the meat carved easily into neat slices. Tasting was an amazing experience, there is no doubt that it is different to its grass fed cousins, the meat was quite dense, similar to the taughtness of free range chicken compared to pasty supermarket birds, my wife commented that it was veal like in texture.

As promised, it was also very tender, but the flavour was the remarkable thing. There is no doubt in my mind that the salt bush confers a concentrated lamb taste, not gamey in any way, just full on, robust, flavour; it was almost like eating lamb for the first time.

Bultarra saltbush lamb is a premium product and its price does reflect that, but if you ever wondered about it or want something a bit different, it's worth a try. We'll be having it again.